build or rebuild your short block type 1
Part number:
ysb1
Your cost:
$500.00
Description:
To have your VW short block rebuilt by us, you must supply the following (unless we're building it all new for you):
$500 for labor only, with parts, machine work*, and any related shipping being extra.
*Machine Work meaning:
If the rods need rebuilt, they'll get sent out for: rebushing, end to end balancing & mate balancing & new nuts.
If the crank needs work of any kind, it will most likely get replaced.
The crank gear 'set' will be reused unless damaged from a 'blow up'.
The block will be steam cleaned, then blown dry with compressed air, then inspected. If the block needs align boring it'll get sent out for that & new main bearings with the rear main cut to fit.
The flywheel will be cleaned in our solvent tank & media blasted.
All new bearings go inside for the crank & rods & cam.
The cam will be inspected for pits or other wear as well as the lifters. If ANY pitting or wear is present, you will get a new cam & lifters. If you have a rivet on gear, you'll get a bolt on gear for this build, if the cam is to be replaced.
The end play will be set using new shims if necessary.
The gland nut & washer will be replaced with a new one.
The oil pump will get inspected for pitting or wear. If any is found you'll get a new oil pump.
The pressure relief spring & plunger kit will be replaced with new.
- Pressure wash at a car wash or steam clean the engine before bringing it to be rebuilt. If you're going to ship it, NEVER use styrofoam packing or towels or bedding - only paper and cardboard packing AND ALWAYS use boxes designed for the weight. Double boxing for short blocks: 16x16x16 and 17x17x17.
- A $300 deposit.
- Bring or ship the short block, which consists of these parts, assembled or not:
- Connecting rods hanging out of the cylinder ports
- The drain plate on the bottom
- The flywheel on the back (no press plate or clutch disc)
- The oil pump on the front
- Nothing on top
- Drain the oil. Bring or ship with no oil in it
- Remove the 2 lower engine mounting studs and pack them loose in the box.
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to provide clearancing
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to drill a hole (for a helicoil for example)
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to smooth away debris or sharp edges left over from manufacture of a part
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to smooth away debris or sharp edges left over from previous machine work
If the rods need rebuilt, they'll get sent out for: rebushing, end to end balancing & mate balancing & new nuts.
If the crank needs work of any kind, it will most likely get replaced.
The crank gear 'set' will be reused unless damaged from a 'blow up'.
The block will be steam cleaned, then blown dry with compressed air, then inspected. If the block needs align boring it'll get sent out for that & new main bearings with the rear main cut to fit.
The flywheel will be cleaned in our solvent tank & media blasted.
All new bearings go inside for the crank & rods & cam.
The cam will be inspected for pits or other wear as well as the lifters. If ANY pitting or wear is present, you will get a new cam & lifters. If you have a rivet on gear, you'll get a bolt on gear for this build, if the cam is to be replaced.
The end play will be set using new shims if necessary.
The gland nut & washer will be replaced with a new one.
The oil pump will get inspected for pitting or wear. If any is found you'll get a new oil pump.
The pressure relief spring & plunger kit will be replaced with new.
We accept the following forms of payment:
