build or rebuild your long block type 4 from the main bearings out
Part number:
ylb4
Your cost:
$2,000.00
Description:
To have your VW type 4 long block rebuilt from the main bearings out by us, you must supply the following:
$2000 for labor only, with parts, machine work*, and any related shipping being extra.
I will tear it down to the bare block & inspect the block, crank journals & rods.
If the rods need rebuilt, they'll get sent out for: rebushing, end to end balancing & mate balancing & new nuts.
If the crank needs work of any kind, it will get sent out for that.
The crank gear 'set' will be reused unless damaged from a 'blow up'.
The block will be steam cleaned, then blown dry with compressed air, then inspected. If the block needs align boring it'll get sent out for that & new main bearings with the rear main cut to fit.
The flywheel will be cleaned in our solvent tank & media blasted.
All new bearings go inside for the rods & cam as well.
The cam will be inspected for pits or other wear as well as the lifters. If ANY pitting or wear is present, you will get a new cam & lifters. If you have a rivet on gear, you'll get a bolt on gear for this build.
The end play will be set using new shims if necessary.
The oil pump will get inspected for pitting or wear. If any is found you'll get a new oil pump.
The pressure relief spring & plunger kit will be replaced with new.
I'll install a new piston & cylinder kit with Total Seal Gapless 2nd rings.
I'll inspect & possibly reuse your heads (they will be steam cleaned only). If they leak or are cracked they'll be sent out for repair.
I'll install new pushrod tube seals. I'll clean & blow out the pushrods.
I'll inspect & reinstall your valve train at the correct lash & install the valve covers.
A new engine gasket kit will be used & you'll get the left over gaskets & seals.
*Machine Work meaning:
- A clean long block. Pressure wash at a car wash or steam clean the engine before bringing it to be rebuilt. If you're going to ship it, NEVER use styrofoam packing - only paper or cardboard AND ALWAYS use boxes designed for the weight. Double boxing or crating for long blocks and double boxing for short blocks.
- A $1000 deposit.
- Bring the long block, which consists of:
- The drain plate on the bottom
- The flywheel on the back (no press plate or clutch disc)
- Nothing on the front of the crank
- No shrouding or tin or exhaust components
- Nothing on top
- Drain the oil. Bring with no oil in it
If the rods need rebuilt, they'll get sent out for: rebushing, end to end balancing & mate balancing & new nuts.
If the crank needs work of any kind, it will get sent out for that.
The crank gear 'set' will be reused unless damaged from a 'blow up'.
The block will be steam cleaned, then blown dry with compressed air, then inspected. If the block needs align boring it'll get sent out for that & new main bearings with the rear main cut to fit.
The flywheel will be cleaned in our solvent tank & media blasted.
All new bearings go inside for the rods & cam as well.
The cam will be inspected for pits or other wear as well as the lifters. If ANY pitting or wear is present, you will get a new cam & lifters. If you have a rivet on gear, you'll get a bolt on gear for this build.
The end play will be set using new shims if necessary.
The oil pump will get inspected for pitting or wear. If any is found you'll get a new oil pump.
The pressure relief spring & plunger kit will be replaced with new.
I'll install a new piston & cylinder kit with Total Seal Gapless 2nd rings.
I'll inspect & possibly reuse your heads (they will be steam cleaned only). If they leak or are cracked they'll be sent out for repair.
I'll install new pushrod tube seals. I'll clean & blow out the pushrods.
I'll inspect & reinstall your valve train at the correct lash & install the valve covers.
A new engine gasket kit will be used & you'll get the left over gaskets & seals.
*Machine Work meaning:
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to provide clearancing
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to drill a hole (for a helicoil for example)
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to shave a cylinder for stud clearance
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to shave a cylinder for rod clearance
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to smooth away debris or sharp edges left over from manufacture of a part
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to smooth away debris or sharp edges left over from previous machine work
We accept the following forms of payment:
