build or rebuild your stroker turnkey engine (dual carb) type 1 from the main bearings out
Part number:
ystkdc
Your cost:
$2,200.00
Description:
To have your dual carb'd turnkey VW type 1 STROKER engine built by us, you must supply the following (unless we're building it all new for you):
$2200 for labor only, with parts, machine work*, and any related shipping being extra. $200 MORE for labor only, if your block has 10mm head studs and 94mm cylinders (for clearancing)
I will tear it down to the bare block & inspect the block, crank journals & rods.
If the rods need rebuilt, they'll get sent out for: rebushing, end to end balancing & mate balancing & new nuts.
If the block needs align boring it'll get sent out for that & new main bearings with the rear main cut to fit.
If the crank needs work of any kind, it will most likely get replaced.
The crank gear 'set' will be reused unless damaged from a 'blow up'.
The block will be steam cleaned then blown dry with compressed air.
The flywheel will be cleaned in our solvent tank & media blasted.
All new bearings go inside for the crank & rods & cam.
The cam will be inspected for pits or other wear as well as the lifters. If ANY pitting or wear is present, you will get a new cam & lifters. If you have a rivet on gear, you'll get a bolt on gear for this build.
The end play will be set using new shims if necessary.
The gland nut & washer will be replaced with a new one.
The oil pump will get inspected for pitting or wear. If any is found you'll get a new oil pump.
The pressure relief spring & plunger kit will be replaced with new.
I'll install a new piston & cylinder kit with Total Seal Gapless 2nd rings.
I'll inspect & possibly reuse your heads (they will NOT be cleaned other than a rinse in the solvent tank). If they leak or are cracked you'll get new heads.
I'll install new pushrod tubes & seals. I'll clean & blow out the pushrods.
I'll inspect & reinstall your valve train at the correct lash & install the valve covers.
A new engine gasket kit will be used.
The rest of the engine will be reassembled as it was taken apart.
$400 extra if you want the engine fired up and broke-in on our test bench upon completion. During the first run in process, which is 1/2 hour, I burnish in the cam to the lifters, seat the rings & check for leaks. At the end of the 1/2 hour I set the low end timing, jetting, idle speed & note the idle speed oil pressure. I then drain the run in oil, remove the oil filler & valve covers to cool the engine, set the valves again when the engine is cold & replace the drain assembly after cleaning it. For the 2nd run in I take the engine through its rev range and adjust the high end jetting, check the full advance of the distributor & note the high end rev oil pressure. After that is done, I shut the engine off and let it cool for a few minutes and then restart it to see if any additional fuel is needed for a quick start, without having giving it any throttle movement. Now I'm done. The engine is now ready to drive as you see fit.
*Machine Work meaning:
- A clean engine. Pressure wash at a car wash or steam clean the engine before bringing it to be built
- Bring the engine, minus the clutch and pressure plate (unless you'll want it balanced with the flywheel). If you bring the engine in the car, the labor to pull & replace is additional @ $150 ea hour involved.
The engine must have these parts either assembled or not:- The drain plate on the bottom
- The flywheel on the back
- The pulley on the front
- Drain the oil. Bring with no oil in it. Bring your own new oil if you want to save $.
- Bring the exhaust if you want it installed when the engine is complete, but please bring it off the engine
- Bring a deposit of $1000
If the rods need rebuilt, they'll get sent out for: rebushing, end to end balancing & mate balancing & new nuts.
If the block needs align boring it'll get sent out for that & new main bearings with the rear main cut to fit.
If the crank needs work of any kind, it will most likely get replaced.
The crank gear 'set' will be reused unless damaged from a 'blow up'.
The block will be steam cleaned then blown dry with compressed air.
The flywheel will be cleaned in our solvent tank & media blasted.
All new bearings go inside for the crank & rods & cam.
The cam will be inspected for pits or other wear as well as the lifters. If ANY pitting or wear is present, you will get a new cam & lifters. If you have a rivet on gear, you'll get a bolt on gear for this build.
The end play will be set using new shims if necessary.
The gland nut & washer will be replaced with a new one.
The oil pump will get inspected for pitting or wear. If any is found you'll get a new oil pump.
The pressure relief spring & plunger kit will be replaced with new.
I'll install a new piston & cylinder kit with Total Seal Gapless 2nd rings.
I'll inspect & possibly reuse your heads (they will NOT be cleaned other than a rinse in the solvent tank). If they leak or are cracked you'll get new heads.
I'll install new pushrod tubes & seals. I'll clean & blow out the pushrods.
I'll inspect & reinstall your valve train at the correct lash & install the valve covers.
A new engine gasket kit will be used.
The rest of the engine will be reassembled as it was taken apart.
$400 extra if you want the engine fired up and broke-in on our test bench upon completion. During the first run in process, which is 1/2 hour, I burnish in the cam to the lifters, seat the rings & check for leaks. At the end of the 1/2 hour I set the low end timing, jetting, idle speed & note the idle speed oil pressure. I then drain the run in oil, remove the oil filler & valve covers to cool the engine, set the valves again when the engine is cold & replace the drain assembly after cleaning it. For the 2nd run in I take the engine through its rev range and adjust the high end jetting, check the full advance of the distributor & note the high end rev oil pressure. After that is done, I shut the engine off and let it cool for a few minutes and then restart it to see if any additional fuel is needed for a quick start, without having giving it any throttle movement. Now I'm done. The engine is now ready to drive as you see fit.
*Machine Work meaning:
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to provide clearancing
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to drill a hole
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to shave a cylinder for stud clearance
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to shave a cylinder for rod clearance
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to smooth away debris or sharp edges left over from manufacture of a part
- If I or a machinist needs to use any power tool to smooth away debris or sharp edges left over from previous machine work
We accept the following forms of payment:
