why it's not possible to quote building your engine without seeing it
Part number:
phils1915
Description:
The engine in my rail was a 1915 with a turbo
It ran fine but dripped oil by the flywheel and at the crankcase seam by the oil pump
I wanted to rebuild it to seal it up. Easy right?
After removing the flywheel, I discovered that all 8 dowels are loose in the crank and the flywheel and the gland nut was put in so tight, with so much loctite, that the cranks gland nut threads are certainly of questionable integrity, so, the crank & flywheel are junk unless someone wants to pay to have both accept oversize dowels and hope that the cranks threads will 'hold' gland nut torque when rebuilt.
I pulled the oil pump to see what cam is in it:
I find a stock 4 rivet, deep dish cam that's been reground. It would not be reused, since it and the lifters show signs of pitting.
I remove the cylinder heads and find stock exhaust valves, and cracks between the valves. The intakes are 40mm. the plug bores are stock short style.
I remove the pistons & cylinders and to my horror I see a crack that's been welded (horribly I might add) in the left side of the #3 port. I look further to see that the case was also welded on the opposite side of that crack (the flywheel side) and that's where one of my oil leaks was coming from!
I go to remove the deep oil sump and find that it's been cracked and welded too.
I cleaned off the area around the flywheel seal and see that the thrust has been cut 1mm. I clean the top of the block and see that the mains are line bored to 20 over. I don't know about the rods.
At this point, I decide I'm going to build an all new engine.
The short block is junk in my opinion. Yes a machine shop can repair the block, you pay the shipping both ways and the labor. Wait for them to tell you the block has other cracks.
The heads aren't wonderful, even though they're dual spring w/ chromoly retainers.
The valve train is:
stock rockers with swivel feet
bolt together shafts that don't match
nice black steel pushrods
I haven't cleaned the pistons yet to see if they're forged or Hyper's, but they had stock rings on them. The cylinders had some cross hatch marks left.
So, this is why an engine builder should not try to quote you on building your engine until he's torn it apart. YOU JUST NEVER KNOW.
I don't care if you disagree.
It ran fine but dripped oil by the flywheel and at the crankcase seam by the oil pump
I wanted to rebuild it to seal it up. Easy right?
After removing the flywheel, I discovered that all 8 dowels are loose in the crank and the flywheel and the gland nut was put in so tight, with so much loctite, that the cranks gland nut threads are certainly of questionable integrity, so, the crank & flywheel are junk unless someone wants to pay to have both accept oversize dowels and hope that the cranks threads will 'hold' gland nut torque when rebuilt.
I pulled the oil pump to see what cam is in it:
I find a stock 4 rivet, deep dish cam that's been reground. It would not be reused, since it and the lifters show signs of pitting.
I remove the cylinder heads and find stock exhaust valves, and cracks between the valves. The intakes are 40mm. the plug bores are stock short style.
I remove the pistons & cylinders and to my horror I see a crack that's been welded (horribly I might add) in the left side of the #3 port. I look further to see that the case was also welded on the opposite side of that crack (the flywheel side) and that's where one of my oil leaks was coming from!
I go to remove the deep oil sump and find that it's been cracked and welded too.
I cleaned off the area around the flywheel seal and see that the thrust has been cut 1mm. I clean the top of the block and see that the mains are line bored to 20 over. I don't know about the rods.
At this point, I decide I'm going to build an all new engine.
The short block is junk in my opinion. Yes a machine shop can repair the block, you pay the shipping both ways and the labor. Wait for them to tell you the block has other cracks.
The heads aren't wonderful, even though they're dual spring w/ chromoly retainers.
The valve train is:
stock rockers with swivel feet
bolt together shafts that don't match
nice black steel pushrods
I haven't cleaned the pistons yet to see if they're forged or Hyper's, but they had stock rings on them. The cylinders had some cross hatch marks left.
So, this is why an engine builder should not try to quote you on building your engine until he's torn it apart. YOU JUST NEVER KNOW.
I don't care if you disagree.
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